“Food is Family. Family is Life . Life is Everything”.
Menerbes could not be more perfect as a base for exploring the heart of Provence.
Our favourites:
Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque outside Gordes is a 12th Century abbey set amid fragrant lavender fields. Here, you will experience the classic Provençal image of vibrant purple fields, as well as being able to tour the working abbey. Visit www.abbayesenanque.fr for the opening hours as they can vary from season to season.
Gordes is a fascinating village clinging to the side of a mountain. It is filled with the atmosphere and spirit of the region, as well as interesting shops and tiny restaurants. It can get quite crowded so go early. The market day is a great occasion and well worth a visit.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (the Venice of France) is a village brimming with antique and bric-a-brac shops, where you can pick up an authentic souvenir of Provence. On Sunday mornings, visit their quintessential Provençal market, you’ll find the streets lined with stalls selling mainly bric-a-brac and local produce. Afterwards, browse antique shops along the river bank. Our – and many other locals’ – favourite past time is to buy a delicious poulet roti (roast chicken) along with roast potatoes and onions and a fresh baguette, for the Sunday evening meal. While you’re there, lunch along the Sorgue River with its seven water wheels. Paradise.
Aix (Aix-en-Provence) is a dynamic city of art and artists, fountains and thoroughfares, universities and youngsters, as well as having ancient roots reaching back to the Second Century BC. Its main street, Cours Mirabeau, is world famous for its trees and the majestic fountain at its heart. Slip away from the main drag into the narrow streets of the ancient city to discover its true character. Lunch at Les Deux Garçons, a 17th Century restaurant famous for its steak tartare – a must for the travelling gourmand! Aix is also famous for its museums, in particular the Atelier Paul Cezanne studio and garden which houses many of his famous works.
The Camargue Region and Saint Maries de la Mer is unlike anywhere else in Provence. Made famous by Roy Campbell with his poem The Horses of the Camargue, it is a nature reserve for birds, black bulls and white horses, as well as containing rice paddies and salt plains. It is a fascinating place to visit for its different culture (very Spanish) but watch out for the gypsies and their light-fingered nature.
Cassis and the calanques are deep narrow inlets, like mini-fjords, that cut into the cliffs between Cassis and Marseilles. The colour of the water is spectacular and some calanques have tiny harbours or beaches at the ends. You may also spy rock climbers scaling the steep walls along the sides. You can’t drive to calanques – you must either hike or take a boat trip from Cassis harbour. On the way back you may want to pop into Aubagne a non-descript town which is the headquarters of the French Foreign Legion – their museum is excellent and open to the public.
The Gorges du Verdon is a spectacular canyon, up to 700m deep and 21km long – compact, wild and beautiful. From Castellane to the village of Rougons, the Verdon River flows clear and swift, with the road following along the banks.
Marseille is France’s second city, and just an hour away via the A8. It’s a very lively place with wonderful seafood, and a visit to the Old Port is worth your while. Beware crushing traffic!
Lacoste is the home of the Marquis de Sade’s château, but beware the steep climb. Pierre Cardin has bought up the village and his presence is everywhere.
Avignon is the 11th Century home of the Catholic Popes. A vibrant old city lies within its walls, dominated by the Palais de Papes and Notre Dame Cathedral. The many town squares offer a vibrant art bias along with a choice of excellent restaurants. This is the perfect small city to wander around and soak up the history and atmosphere – and the shopping isn’t bad either, with all the big brands available here. Take the little white tourist train for a city orientation tour (leaves from the Palais des Papes).
Les Baux-de-Provence is a spectacular old fortress village on a hill, dating back to Roman times. It can get very busy but it is worth a stroll through – especially to browse the many art and pottery shops. It is one of the most popular sites in Provence so crowds are an issue in the mid-summer. There is also the ever-popular Carriere des Lumieres – a sound and light spectacular with famous artists being showcased via 300 projectors in a massive 9-story high interior quarry.
St Rémy de Provence is a picturesque, busy town with a good choice of restaurants and hotels. The road between St Rémy and Cavaillon is arrow-straight and lined with plane trees – just like French roads are portrayed in films. This is where Nostradamus and van Gogh lived, and the old town is very atmospheric. The St Rémy Market on Wednesday mornings is a must! The narrow, cobbled streets are lined with art studios and food shops. Enjoy lunch at one of the many restaurants (avoid the ones in the Town Square!) and soak up the atmosphere provided by the many buskers playing traditional French music.
Paradoux is a tiny village just 10km from St Rémy. If you find that the crowds in St Rémy Market are too much for you, take a slow drive to Bistro Jean Paul, a Provençal restaurant literally dripping with atmosphere and local characters. The food is five-star Michelin without the price. Jean Paul is a charming host until later in the day when he has a habit of becoming ‘over-refreshed’. Bookings are essential.
Lourmarin is a fascinating and beautiful village (for both the scenery and the people). There are a number of up-market and tasteful shops worth a visit, especially if you have a passion for antiques and décor. A well-preserved château in the town is also worth a visit. The Friday market is quite different to the others and quite up-market.
Fontaine de Vaucluse is where a deep spring feeds the Sorgue River. ‘Fontaine’ means ‘fountain’ and ‘Vaucluse’ is the name of the department (state) you are in. It’s said that all the rainfall that comes off the mountains feeds into this mysterious spring, which is over 1,000 feet deep (however the bottom has never been reached). Fontaine de Vaucluse is the name of the village as well. It’s best to visit during the week – as weekends can be impossibly crowded. There are places on the Sorgue where you can hire a canoe or kayak and drift down the river – then you will be met at the end of your relaxing float and taken back to your car.
Mont Ventoux is a mountain that looks snow-capped year-round, but is, in fact, topped with white shale. In the winter it does have snow and many go skiing and tobogganing there, though runs are short. You can drive to the top and enjoy stunning views to the Mediterranean and over to the Alps. Take a coat as it can be cold at the top, even in summer. For the extremely fit, you can also cycle to the top – it is one of the most notorious stages of the Tour de France cycle race. Plan to take the whole day for this trip. Sault at the foot of the mountain is an interesting little village.
Arles was a major Roman city and the surviving sites, such as the arena and the theatre, are unique in that they are integrated into the houses and buildings of the town, rather than sitting apart as they do in places such as Orange. Arles is also where van Gogh had one of his most productive periods. Arles is the Gateway to the Camargue.
The French Riviera – the Côte d’Azur is a day-trip away: Saint-Tropez is 1.5 hours, Cannes just 2 hours, and Nice and Monte Carlo 2.5 hours. Take the autoroute which is the fastest way – but remember change for the tolls as most are now automated.